Although it wasn’t the Sabasaba festival, nor was it the year 1978 when it was nationally celebrated in Mbeya, and in fact, the trip wasn’t even to Mbeya, the sheer amount of fun we had reminded me of Marquis du Zaire’s famous song “Safari yetu Mbeya.” Even though I’m not a songwriter, I found myself tempted to compose a tune, and wanted it go like “Safari ya Songea tulifurahi sana…“, but I stopped there. Songwriting isn’t my forte, so I decided to stick to what I know best—writing.
This was a journey full of adventure and a fascinating history lesson, enriched by the presence of a legendary journalist. To this day, I still wonder why he wasn’t a tour guide, by the way he is my grandfather, so I have the right to tease him, and this is none other than Allan Lawa, who gave us a vivid account when we reached Lugalo. He showed us the grave of German commander Emil von Zelewski. The Germans refer to it as ‘The Battle of Lugalo – 17th August 1891 – Von Zelewski’s Last Stand’. This is where the German commander was killed and buried by the brave Hehe warriors.
According to German colonial uniforms website the battlefield was near the village of Lugalo, about 10 miles east of Iringa, just off the modern A7 Tanzam Highway. “A large ridge stood to the right of von Zelewski’s intended route, behind which the Hehe lay in ambush. The ground sloped downward, covered in dry grass, thick bushes, and scattered large rocks”.
Records state that on August 17th at 0600 HRS, the expedition set off from near Lugalo, marching toward Kalenga. Despite being an experienced and cautious commander, von Zelewski made the fatal mistake of not sending scouts far ahead or securing his flanks.
Meanwhile, the Hehe had prepared an ambush at Lugalo. Their warriors hid behind a ridge to the left of the German column’s path. A Hehe lookout was to fire a single musket shot as the signal to attack once the Germans were in the perfect position.
As the expedition began marching below the ridge, a German officer spotted a flock of birds and fired a shot, hoping to bag some early morning game. The Hehe mistook this for their attack signal, even though the Germans weren’t yet fully in the trap. Thousands of Hehe warriors stormed over the ridge, screaming their war cry, “Hee Twahumite! He heeeeee!”
“Most, if not all, of the askaris marched with unloaded rifles. They barely had time to load, let alone form defensive squares before the Hehe overwhelmed them. The design of their newly issued 1887 cartridge pouches was unfamiliar, costing them precious seconds. Only one or two volleys were fired before chaos erupted. Pack animals and porters fled, and artillery donkeys stampeded into the 5th company’s askaris. Many soldiers ran for their lives” details the Germany colonial website.
The Hehe overran the German column in just fifteen minutes. Von Zelewski was killed on his donkey when he turned to fire at one group of warriors, only to be speared from the other side. Lieutenant von Pirch and Dr. Buschow were similarly cut down. Most of the 7th company, Artillery Detachment, 5th company, and the advance party of the 6th company were slaughtered where they stood.
The journey continued with light stories until late into the night as the Route One editorial team, aka Wazee wa Lindi, arrived in Songea. Meanwhile, the heat of the TEF elections rose. My grandson, January Nchimbi, a native of Songea, took the wheel as our tour guide, sharing many insights about Songea and the Ruvuma region in general. Two stories particularly fascinated me.
First, the origin of the famous phrase among many people: “bombi hii, nyumbi ii.” There’s no better explanation than knowing its roots, this phrase is the identity of the people of Songea. January explained: “There was a water pipe in this area, at Bomba mbili to be exact. It became so well-known that when someone wanted to give directions, they’d use the pipe as a reference point. Many people lived near it, so they’d say, “My place is near this pipe,” which loosely translates in Swahili bomba hili, nyumba hii, over time, with the slurring of words; it became ‘bombi ii, nyumbi ii.’”*
The charm of Songea’s stories doesn’t end there. Just hearing the name Peramiho tells you that it’s one of the oldest towns in Songea District, Ruvuma Region, with a unique history in Tanzania’s southern belt. It’s perhaps better known internationally than many other southern Tanzanian towns due to its distinctive past, linking Tanzania to European nations.
The history of Peramiho, located just 24 km from Ruvuma’s regional capital, Songea, is tied to the Benedictine monks of the Catholic Church from St. Ottilien in Germany, who established their headquarters in Peramiho Abbey. These Benedictines first entered the ancient town in 1898, led by Fr. Kasian Spiss. Since then, their work has put Peramiho on the map, earning it recognition as a cultural tourism destination.
The second Peramiho church houses a miraculous clock, crafted over 70 years ago by German hands. Since its creation in 1946, the clock has never stopped or lost time, a marvel that continues to draw visitors.
The Peramiho Cathedral used over three million bricks. Construction began under Bishop Gallus Steiger and Brother Gislar Stumpf, who drafted the church’s design in 1940. Swiss architect Hans Burkard refined the blueprints in 1943, completing them with Brother Gislar. Construction started on July 6, 1943, and ended on September 9, 1943. The foundation pillars, weighing five tons each, were installed under the supervision of Brothers Nonosius Bleicher and Menas Leicht, using a special machine built by Brother Jucundus Weigele in August 1946. By November 24, 1945, all 120,000 tiles were ready for the church’s roof. In 1948, the Peramiho Cathedral was consecrated by Father Heribert, with Father Gerold Rupper delivering the first sermon.
But what’s the origin of the name Peramiho? My grandson Nchimbi explains, “When the missionaries arrived in Songea, they asked Chief Mikosi Nguna for land. He agreed, but the challenge was finding unused land—most was already farmed or grazed. After discussions with the elders, they were given a rocky, infertile plot deemed useless by the locals. That land is now Peramiho. At the time, it likely didn’t even have a name.”*
After receiving the land, the missionaries developed it with their technology, building houses and cultivating beautiful gardens. The locals were amazed and began referring to the Europeans as “mwapera mihu” which translates “you just look (at them) and leave them alone (for their ability to transform the impossible into reality)”. Over generations, the term evolved into Peramiho.
I’m not entirely sure what motivated the Tanzania Editors’ Forum (TEF) to hold its special election meeting in Songea. But after hearing these stories, I’m convinced fate played a role, as if to affirm that TEF, too, is “mwapera mihu.”
The special election assembly in Songea has taken place, with TEF having built significant influence both nationally and internationally. The newly elected leaders bear the responsibility of safeguarding these achievements, upholding media ethics, and revitalizing the journalism industry.
The unanimous re-election of Deodatus Balile and Bakari Machumu to lead TEF for another four years is a clear vote of confidence in their work, including TEF’s purchase of a property in Magomeni, Dar es Salaam, and plans to establish a sustainable investment. These developments, among others discussed at the meeting, have strengthened TEF.
Indeed, TEF has left Songea, a.k.a. bombi ii, nyumbi ii, with renewed vigor, shining like a flame of hope for a new dawn in Tanzania’s media industry.
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